Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
